The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is brilliant, unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, dark chocolate, spices and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it's elegantly muscular, with a deep and multidimensional core and a long, expansive finish. It's worth a special effort to seek out.

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru has a very well-defined bouquet with vivacious red cherries, strawberry and crushed rock aromas. This has a little more attack than the Lavaux, partly because of the low yields, under 20hl/ha. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a little creaminess in texture on the entry, very smooth with a slightly candied finish that just compromises its potential delineation. Still, this should drink well for 15- to 20 years.

Cask sample. Mid cherry red. Smells very ripe, almost raisined, though it is the very end of the bottle so perhaps not in perfect condition? Sweet damson contrasts with a stemmy dry texture. (JH)