The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes unwinds in the glass with aromas of pastry cream, crisp orchard fruit, honeycomb and white flowers. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad shouldered and powerful, with a dense, blocky profile that is classic Combettes. When I tasted it, the wine was quite reserved and less advanced in its élevage than most of Carillon's other cuvées, but its potential is clearly considerable.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has an intense nose that sports a very small reduction, but there is plenty of fruit here, as well as impressive tension. The palate is balanced with crisp acidity, a bit "spiky" compared to Sauzet's Combettes and without quite the same persistence on the finish, but at least there is an appealing spiciness. This needs to settle down. Like Carillon's other 2017s, it is not showing its best now but should improve. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting in Savigny-lès-Beaune.