Aromas of aniseed and lemon rind with dried apple and pear follow through to a full body. Yet, it’s tight and layered with a compact palate and plenty of fruit. Needs time to open. Try after 2023.

Aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, clear honey, peach, mint and buttery pastry introduce the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, a full-bodied, ample and enveloping wine that's one of the more textural, dramatic wines in the range. Unusually deep and concentrated, its immediate, charming profile belies considerable aging potential this year.

50–60% fermented in French oak barrels (aged 6 years on average). The remainder is vinified in small stainless-steel vats. Aged 14–15 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 50 to 60% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless-steel vats. Tank sample. A marked contrast to the Vaudésir, broader and more spicy on the nose. Ripe citrus and hints of fresh pear. Broad and spicy on the palate, too. The freshness is sufficient to balance those flavours and give a rather zippy example of Bougros, which can be a bit fat. (JH)