The 2022 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru, matured around one-third in used barrel, sports a subtle reduction on the nose that works to its favor: white flowers commingle with Mirabelle and crushed stone. The palate is well-balanced and precise, harmonious with orange pith and nectarine, just a touch of praline. It builds nicely in the glass and then slams its foot on the accelerator right on the finish as if to say: That's all for now. One for the patient amongst you.

Always one of the richer, rounder wines in the range, the 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros offers up notes of honeyed peaches, pear and wet stones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, ample and fleshy palate that's broad but saline.

Tank sample. Herbs and fresh pears and a touch of white pepper. Creamy, gentle and tastes remarkably soft even though you feel the freshness at the very end. Lacks intensity but, according to winemaker Didier Séguier, who is really pleased with the vintage, this intensity will come once the wines are bottled. (JH)