2023 Domaine William Fevre, Chablis Grand Cru, Bougros

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

An exuberantly citrus=suffused nose reflects additional notes of mineral reduction, iodine and apple. The sleek, delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors display both good focus and power, all wrapped in a lemon-tinged finale. There is a touch of warmth and this does need to develop more depth but overall, this is quite good with fine upside potential.

The 2023 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru comes from steep slopes at the bottom of Bougros, close to the Chablis bypass. Quite taut on the nose, it conveys plenty of tension, citrus peel mixed with hints of vanilla and white chocolate. The palate is beautifully composed with a killer line of acidity, lime cordial, a touch of fish oil, quite intense on the finish that lingers long in the mouth. One of the strongest offerings from the Domaine this vintage.

Mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is surprisingly reticent, but suggests body to follow. The 2023 Bougros has retained a fresh white fruit on the palate, plenty of energy behind, nicely balanced because Bougros can be clumsy, with fine length. Drink from 2028-2036.

Cask/tank sample. Savoury nose. Lots of texture and extract here. Lightly saline. (JR)