Wine Advocate August, 2013 The Fevre 2012 Chablis Les Clos – tasted some six or more months ahead of bottling – puts the hierarchy of crus into perspective with a performance of amazing concentration and complexity. A saline and alkaline sea breeze alliance, chalk dust, fresh lemon and tangerine, iris, and greenhouse-like profusion of leafing things leap from the glass. This comes to the palate with exhilarating electric intensity and lift, suffused with mineral elements and lees for a combination of textural caress and density, yet at the same time brightly refreshing in its tart-edged evocation of firm apple and fresh citrus. Oyster liqueur floods the finish with salivary gland-milking concentration even as a torrent of juicy citrus is unleashed. This should remain profoundly memorable through at least 2024. ()

Fine acid with a fleshy, fruity body – that classic grand cru Chablis style. Very rewarding and complex already, but has much further to go. Drink: 2016 to 2030 (RH)