Pale, green-tinged yellow. Aromas of lime blossom, crushed rock and mint. Silky and suave on entry, then densely packed yet weightless in the middle, showing superb lift to the flavors of lemon, lime, white pepper, crushed stone and saline oyster shell. The rising finish displays superb lift and echoing persistence. Looks to be one of the best wines of the vintage.

The 2013 Chablis Les Clos wraps around the palate with gorgeous depth and textural balance. A wine of seamless balance, texture and harmony, the 2013 Clos is super-expressive today. The oak is a bit evident today, although all the wines in the range were raised in neutral barrels, perhaps the sign of a vintage with modest structure. Time will tell.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a clean and precise, chalk and white flower-scented bouquet with just a touch of lemon curd behind. The palate is well balanced with good weight in the mouth, just a touch of spice and citrus peel, grilled walnut and smoke surfacing toward the finish that fans out nicely. Excellent.

Attractive aroma that combines super-zesty citrus freshness with stony minerality. As with most of the Fèvre Chablis in 2013, this does not really fulfil the expectation of its appellation but it does have just enough drive and texture to develop over time. (JH)