Very pale lemon-green. Pure, discreet, thoroughly ripe aromas of lime confit, white flowers, wild herbs and crushed stone. Broad and ripe on the attack, but with a magically weightless impression and outstanding inner-mouth energy to the flavors of lime and orange zest, grapefruit, white flowers and minerals. Utterly seamless, densely packed Clos with great rising, palate-saturating length. William Fèvre owns eight parcels representing a total of four hectares of vines in this great site, mostly at the top of the cru.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is 70% vinified in oak barrels for six months before maturation in stainless steel only. It has a very precise but powerful bouquet with lemon rind and flint scents, though it takes time to really open up. The palate is fresh and crisp with lime and apricot on the entry. The acidity is sharp and penetrating, gently building toward an intense, bitter-lemon finish that is elegant and refined. This is very impressive.

A broad-ranging array features notes of spice, green apple, grapefruit, lemon rind and copious Chablis elements. Remarkably for a wine that is relatively quite refined, the medium-bodied and concentrated flavors are even more powerful than those of the Bougros, all wrapped in a superbly complex, saline and balanced finish where the citrus character telegraphed by the nose reappears on the explosive finale. There is a bit of wood in evidence but I doubt that it will take very long before it is fully integrated. In sum, this is one to strongly consider.

70% of the crop saw oak. Solid and introvert but with real concentration. Still very earthbound aromatically but this certainly has the bones and muscles for a long life. (JR)