Incredible wine here with cooked-apple, lemon-curd, vanilla-bean and praline aromas that follow through to a full body with layers of fruit and a long, flavorful finish. It shows aniseed, licorice and fennel seed.

The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has turned out brilliantly, mingling aromas of orange oil, confit citrus and crisp green apple with notes of warm bread, white flowers, oyster shell and anise in an incipiently complex bouquet. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's concentrated and tightly wound, with broad shoulders and huge depth at the core, concluding with a long, electric finish. It was cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare.

The 2019 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a clean and pure bouquet with yellow plum, jasmine, crushed stone and light fumé scents that retain focus and precision. Here, the oak is used prudently. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, fresh and vibrant, very harmonious with a less spicy but more nuanced and terroir-expressive finish than its peers. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

60–70% fermented in French oak barrels (aged 6 years on average). The remainder is vinified in small stainless-steel vats. Aged 14–15 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 60 to 70% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless-steel vats. Tank sample. Very stony at first, opening up to grapefruit/lemon and a hint of oak’s spice and the creamy impression I find from the lees. Almost peppery. On the palate, taut, lean but not thin. Great length with very little weight. (JH)