The 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a serious, structured wine, unwinding in the glass with aromas of ripe, waxy citrus rind, crisp orchard fruit and white flowers, framed by a deft touch of youthful reduction. Full-bodied, dense and satiny, it's layered, concentrated and multidimensional, with the most structure and substance of any wine in the range, but also the greatest need for patience to realize all its considerable potential.

The 2022 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a surprisingly primal bouquet with gooseberry, melon, fruits de mer and citrus peel, with more oyster shell scents developing as it opens, though never quite achieving the flair of the Valmur. The palate is well-balanced, steely and strict, with fine intensity and a saline finish. But it doesn't quite have the precision of Fevre's best cuvées at the moment.

Tank sample. Spicy and creamy like the Valmur but perhaps slightly leaner and tighter on the palate, the acidity more to the fore on the finish. (JH)