Very pale yellow. Very ripe but vibrant nose combines lime, spices, white pepper, crushed rock and liquid minerals. Delivers a saline, sappy combination of rich peachy fruit and floral/mineral lift, with a remarkably weightless quality. The chewy, saline, bone-dry finish reinforced by minerality conveys a powerful impression of dry extract and Kimmeridgian soil. Really inexorable on the back end.

Once again, based on the nose alone, this could be nothing else but Chablis with its mélange of tidal pool, mineral reduction, citrus blossom and discreet spice nuances. There is fantastic detail to the focused, mineral-driven and powerful middle weight plus flavors that do a slow build from the mid-palate all the way back to the explosively long, balanced and bone dry finish. This too should amply reward longer-term cellaring but be approachable after only 6 to 8. In a word, wonderful.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Fevre's 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte de Bouguerots has a very austere bouquet with oyster shell and subtle seaweed scents complementing the flinty aromas. The palate is quite sharp and penetrating on the entry, sour lemon mixed with yellow plum, segueing into a terse and linear finish. It is quite complex in style but more impressive than delicious at the moment. I suspect another two or three years in bottle and it will come out of its shell.