In a sense, the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots offers a resumé of several of Fèvre's grand cru bottlings, uniting the taut musculature of Valmur and the ethereal, mineral profile of Les Preuses, with some of the perfumed sensuality of Vaudésir and fleshy texture of Bougros. The result is certainly a very compelling wine, exhibiting aromas of crisp green orchard fruit, white flowers, freshly baked bread, oyster jus and white peach, followed by a full-bodied, taut and layered palate that's seamless and complete, concluding with a pungently mineral finish. It's worth a special effort to seek out, though a decade's patience is warmly advised.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2020 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru has a crushed stone scented bouquet. A peppermint trace comes through with aeration. The nose is controlled and citrus-fresh, and I admire the energy. The palate is poised and concentrated, and a silver thread of acidity keeps this Grand Cru tensile and focused. Bright and lightly spiced towards the finish, this fans out with style. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

Cask sample. Light nose and quite restrained for the moment. Big and bold – almost Côte d'Or build. Set for the long term. Broad, persistent finish. (JR)