Initially a bit restrained, the fruit opens up on the palate with notes of white peach, nectarine and Mirabelle plums, accented with a salty minerality and a hint of spice. Chiselled and fine but still impressively powerful. Fèvre owns more than a third of Bougros; 2ha are located in this unique parcel that rises steeply from the river in south-southwest-facing slopes, producing this exotic, concentrated wine that will live for decades.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2023 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouguerots Grand Cru comes from steep slopes at the bottom of Bougros, close to the Chablis bypass. Quite taut on the nose, it conveys plenty of tension, citrus peel mixed with hints of vanilla and white chocolate. The palate is beautifully composed with a killer line of acidity, lime cordial, a touch of fish oil, quite intense on the finish that lingers long in the mouth. One of the strongest offerings from the Domaine this vintage.

A riper yet more elegant nose freely offers up aromas of white flowers, mineral reduction, citrus zest, iodine and sea breeze wisps. There is fine precision and verve to the tension-filled medium weight plus flavors that exude a bracing salinity on the bitter lemon-tinged, youthfully austere and markedly dry finale. This very classy effort is also potentially outstanding.

Cask/tank sample. Quite a spread of flavour – greengage? – on the nose and palate. A herbal note. Almost painful acidity. This should be a longer-term bet than most. (JR)