An exotic, totally beguiling wine, the 2017 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru melds together rich fruit with saline, mineral-drenched intensity. White flowers, mint, white pepper and crushed rocks add tremendous lift to this striking, utterly captivating Chablis. A wine of superb classicism, the Preuses has it all. That's all there is to it.

The 2017 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has a well defined bouquet with hints of white flower, nettle and dandelion augmenting the green apple and spicy aromas. The palate is powerful on the entry, very intense and focused with a precise and detailed finish that is one of the best that the domaine produced on the finish. Excellent.

From bottle, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is one of the twin pinnacles of the Fèvre portfolio, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of citrus blossom, mandarin, oyster shell and wet stones—exactly as it did from barrel. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, ample and elegantly glossy, with incisive acids, fine-boned structure and a precise, elegantly mineral finish. The Clos many be the most powerful, but the Preuses is the more elegant, detailed wine in the range this year.

Freshly sliced apple, a touch of salinity and fleshy dairy characters. Shows the volume of grand cru without sacrificing the precision and minerality of Chablis – very nicely done. (RH)