Cropped at a paltry 20 hectoliters per hectare, the 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir unfurls in the glass with aromas of musky peach, orange oil and clear honey, mingled with hints of iodine and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, ample and satiny, it's layered and tightly wound, with racy acids and striking concentration. This will really repay extended bottle age.

Aromas of aniseed and licorice with sliced apple and pear and some stone. Classic character. Full-bodied and layered with lots going on, showing hints of earth, lemon grass and straw. Long finish. Drink now.

50–60% fermented in French oak barrels (aged 6 years on average). The remainder is vinified in small stainless-steel vats. Aged 14–15 months, of which 5 to 6 months on fine lees in French oak barrels for 50 to 60% of the harvest. The end of maturation occurs in small stainless-steel vats. Tank sample. A little more sour-cedary on the nose compared with the Valmur, stony too. That same sour freshness on the palate – very zesty and sinewy. Tight and precise. Should age very well in bottle. (JH)