The 2022 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir opens to reveal lovely aromas of sweet citrus fruit, vine blossom and spices. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and suave, it's layered and elegant, with a pure core of fruit and a long, precise finish. Its seamless, classily aromatic style makes is a high point this year.

The 2022 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a less immediate nose than the Bougros, with hints of lanolin and estuarine scents, lemon verbena and fern. This builds with confidence in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with fine delineation and cohesion, a welcome sour lemon edge, and salinity with a primal grapefruit finish. Again, this will require time once in bottle.

Tank sample. Cool, fresh first impression, delicate at first but with air this opens to depth and concentration of stony citrus. A little less intense on the palate than I expected from the nose but long. (JH)