For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Pale in colour but very vinous on the nose, excellent grip. A chalky grip behind the sunshine. Salinity here more than in the Bougros, with an extra wave of intense flavour, still with a bit of the confit de citron which denotes the sunshine. Drink from 2029-2038.

There is a vaguely exotic quality to the aromas of lemongrass, passion fruit, apple and whiffs of algae and oyster shell. The notably finer though not nearly as powerful middle weight flavors possess evident minerality on the super-sleek, balanced and impressively persistent finish. This borderline delicate effort also needs to develop better depth but the development potential seems quite clear.

The 2023 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru, which is consistently the first to be picked, has a pretty nose with yellow fruit and a touch of chalk. The palate is fresh and quite linear in style, a "correct" Grand Cru. Steely and saline with a more austere finish compared to its peers. It will need some bottle age.

Cask/tank sample. High toned. Sculpted and refreshing though actually it would already be approachable, even though it would be a shame to drink it before it has developed more tertiary notes. (JR)