The 2022 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre reveals aromas of orchard fruit, waxy citrus rind, white flowers and wet stones, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered palate that's dense and deep. This is built for the cellar.

The 2022 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is more reticent on the nose and perhaps doesn't quite engage as the 2021 did last year. A bit bashful at the moment. The palate is well-balanced with a saline entry, though it feels strict and contained, without the flair demonstrated by the Les Lys at the moment. Has this got something up its sleeve? It's a bit too austere and reticent for my liking.

Tank sample. Lovely ripe citrus and stone fruit but stony, too. Creamy, deep fruit. As for the Fourchaume, the intensity is more in the middle than on the finish. Rounded, creamy, generous. (JH)