This powerful, thrilling wine shows pronounced, ripe aromas of mirabelle plum, nectarine and green apple, with a strong underpinning of flinty minerality and smoky reduction. The texture is tightly wound and compact; it's substantial, but not heavy, carrying the wine to a marvellously long finish. [Charles Curtis MW]

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

Lemon and lime in colour with a concentrated sunny but not exotic nose, plums not peaches. This embryonic Chablis tightens up quite considerably on the palate, reinforcing the sense of notable intensity. A light marmalade note that is not unpleasant infuses the finish. Drink from 2027-2034.

The 2023 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru is a step up from the slightly underwhelming 2022 last year. Fine delineation, citrus-fresh with petrichor and a touch of peach skin. The palate is well balanced, and quite powerful though well focused. A keen line of acidity with more sapidity on the finish compared to the Vaillons. Persistent spiciness on the aftertaste. Recommended.

There is reasonably good typicity present on the more floral aromas of poached pear, lemon zest and shellfish[1]scented nose. There is again fine volume and mid-palate density to the delicious and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a dry but not really austere finale. This surprisingly powerful effort could use better depth so at least a few years of cellaring should be beneficial.

Cask/tank sample. Cool, convincing nose. Extremely juicy and salivatory. Though it doesn’t have that much persistence, alas. (JR)