(one of three barrels was new): Bright yellow. The nose suggests a wine with terrific inner-mouth tension: yellow peach, white flowers, menthol, minerals and crushed rock. Fatter than the Vergers in the mouth, with a seductive orange zest sweetness throughout, but kept firm and bright by piquant minerality. Quite tight on the long, aromatic back end. More austere than the Vergers, and not showing the early balance of that wine.

The 2015 Chassagne Montrachet 1Er Cru Caillerets has a stony, quite austere bouquet at first that needed encouragement from the glass. There is a touch of apricot blossom developing with time though it feels tight-lipped at the moment. The palate is lively with orange zest on the entry, very focused with mineral drive, almost a Chablis-like finish. One of those cases where less is more - watch out for this once in bottle.

Far from dramatic but neat and correct. Very appetising. Chewy and nothing too showy. Quite long. (JR)