The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru la Romanée is broody and much more taciturn than the Caillerets, which is typical according to Céline. There are limestone scents here, touches of wet granite. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry and then it fans out with lightly honeyed citrus fruit. It remains focused, feels long and tender in the mouth, though perhaps the Caillerets just has the edge apropos complexity. Whatever, you still would not kick this out of bed in the morning.

Healthy pale yellow. Tangy aromas of lemon icing and lime blossom. A bit less sharply chiseled than the Caillerets (and also showing less gas today), with citrus-dominated flavors suggesting a bit less ripeness too. Tactile but youthfully bitter-edged on the finish. Not quite the minerality or richness of the Caillerets but this is scented, subtle and long.

Inviting aroma of lemon/lime citrus, plus minerality, and impressive intensity on the palate. Precise but also full of lively citrus fruit and good length. Intense rather than elegant but none the worse for that. (JH)