The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers is one of the highpoints of the portfolio this year, unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus oil, white flowers, green pear and oatmeal. Medium to full-bodied and elegantly textural but lively, it retains tension and grip in this warm vintage.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Vergers 1er Cru has a tight and rather recalcitrant bouquet that remains tight-lipped despite rigorous coaxing. The palate, meanwhile, is more open on the entry, offering lemon peel and orange zest, though I would like to see more depth and grip on the rather linear finish. Fine precision here, but it needs a little more matière .

More stony/steely mineral than the village Chassagne with a hint of oak and still lots of bright lemon fruit. Much better depth in the middle compared with the village wine. Worth the premium. Persistent. (JH)