The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru was the full stop on a long and bibulous evening, but that did not detract one jot from the quality of this wine. It has a wonderful, pure, effervescent bouquet with orange pith and touches of camphor and chamomile. The palate is very pure and delivers what you expect from this vineyard. Caressing in texture, it fans out to devastating effect, and while it may just miss earth-shattering mineralité , it is quite simply a beautiful wine in the flush of youth. Tasted at Maison de Colombière.

From a parcel that neighbors Domaine Leflaive's the 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru wafts from the glass with notes of white flowers, Meyer lemon, mandarin oil, pastry cream and pear. On the palate, it's full-bodied, satiny textured and multidimensional, more enveloping but less dense than the Bâtard, while more controlled and delineated than the Criots. Succulent and long, it's a superb Montrachet that I would have loved to spend more time with.

(one new barrel out of one and three-quarters; I tasted it from a one-year-old feuillette ): Rich but tight nose hints at pear liqueur, menthol, stone and iodine. Thick and voluptuous but backward and unevolved, with its pear and menthol flavors supported by a strong mineral spine. This youthfully inexpressive wine is still in an embryonic stage, but its slowly building, palate-staining finish suggests that it will enjoy a glorious evolution in bottle.