The 2005 Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers (from a site downhill from Les Fuees and Cras) smells of lingonberries and cherries, displays superb purity of fruit, fine tannins and attractive glycerin on the palate, and finishes strongly with sweet, caramel-tinged black fruits but also plenty of chalk and wet stone mineral character. Follow this promising Pinot (which only finished its malo at the end of last year) for 10-12 years of fascination. The articulate and opinionated Jean-Marie Fourrier staunchly believes in the inclusion of uncrushed fruit (to among other things prolong fermentation and, he claims, diminish the efficiency of alcoholic conversion); leaving the young wines on their lees (with high CO2 retention) eighteen months before bottling; employing a mere 20% of new barrels for all wines; and applying only minimal doses of sulfur. That the property from which he sources is all owned outright, and is largely in vines of over fifty years age planted by his father or grandfather before the days of clones certainly helps explain the consistently excellent quality at this address. Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

Deep, bright red. Musky, expressive nose offers red berries, minerals, licorice and a piquant white pepper note. Offers a more glyceral texture and more obvious sweetness than the foregoing samples. Dense, sappy, mineral-driven Chambolle, with broad, suave tannins and very good length.

Mossy, dead-leaf mulch aromas. Lively, zesty, not especially sweet. Zesty with marked acidity. Not full bodied but very frank and lively. Fine tannins on the finish. (JR)