Aromas of sweet cherries, currant leaf, candied peel, rose petal and strawberries—subtly framed by a delicate touch of wood—introduce the 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots, a medium to full-bodied, tangy wine with fine, chalky tannins and a more tensile, distinctively mineral profile. Fourrier notes that this premier cru was dynamited in the 1950s to prepare it for planting.

Very small premier cru. Cool, northernmost part of the village near Combe aux Moine and highest at 300 m right next to the forest. East facing, steep. Took Jean-Marie Fourrier 14 years to understand the site. Intense dark wild fruit, like tiny black berries, definitely has the cool influence in the fruit character. Dry and stony on the palate, the site giving a very definite mineral quality with less obvious fruit on the palate than on the nose. Bone dry, chalky texture. Extreme elegance and slimly built but long. (JH)