For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin floats on the palate in its finessed, well-articulated fruit. Subtle and ethereal through to the finish, the wine captures the essence and nobility of Gevrey. With time in the glass the fruit turns darker and the wine puts on weight, showing tons of pedigree and dazzling overall harmony.

Good deep red. Musky aroma of raspberry, blueberry, smoke, crushed rock and game. At once sweet and taut, with an impression of lift and energy rare for the vintage. Really lovely fruit here. Fourrier told me he liked the effect of elevage in mostly older casks in 2009. "More new oak would have speeded up the evolution of the wines," he explained. "That would have required using more sulfur dioxide but we still would have lost fruit."

Planted in 1928 towards Brochon; Champerrier and a little bit of Combe-Dessus. 20% new oak in this wine as a very representative example. Very energetic and sweet and really rather pretty as opposed to massive. Fine tannins on the finish – even a bit muscular but definitely light. Very neat finish. (JR)