The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques engages all of the senses with its cool, mineral-laced fruit and expressive bouquet. This shows marvelous tension and energy, not to mention fabulous overall balance. It could not be more different in style than the 2009 tasted alongside it. Both are fabulous, though. The 2008 is one of the more backward wines of the vintage and will require considerable patience.

Medium red. High-pitched aromas of red cherry, raspberry, rose petal, white pepper and crushed stone. Dense and silky in texture but with great juiciness, clarity and lift thanks to piquant acidity and stony minerality. This saturates the palate with fruits and flowers yet comes off as virtually weightless. An explosive hint of pepper accentuates the impression of lift, but there's nothing green about this beauty. My style of Burgundy.

Mid cherry red. Quite heady. A rather light version of Clos St-Jacques. Pure but certainly not a knock out. Also tasted 7 Jan 2010. Score 17.5. Drink 2013-19: Turkish Delight flavours. Real life and this wine seems to have deepened since late November. (JR)