The 2010 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Jean-Noel Gagnard, out of magnum, is quite deep in color, although not premoxed. It has an open bouquet of white flowers, yellow plum and orange pith, nicely defined if just needing a little more mineralité . The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity, lovely walnut and hazelnut notes rendering it quite Meursault-like, and plenty of weight and concentration toward the finish. I do not estimate this to be a long-term Bâtard, so don’t hesitate to pull the cork soon. Tasted at Sarah Marsh’s 2010 white burgundy tasting in London.

In magnum. Very evolved gold; one of the deepest colours in this tasting of 2010 white burgundies. Smells of gunshot and polish – a bit odd! Big concentration of fruit. Quite a rich finish but not fine. Sturdy. Maybe it will become increasingly refined but, on this showing, I would not suggest it as a must-buy. Pretty chewy. Fermented lemon pastilles. (JR)