The 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru has the most backward nose of the domaine’s Premier Cru. Les Caillerets demands the most coaxing, opening almost reluctantly with crushed rock, pressed yellow flowers and lemon verbena scents. The palate is taut and linear, very fresh and focused. The propitious terroir really shows though here, with a brisk and lightly spiced, complex finish. Very persistent in the mouth, this is a superb showing that may warrant a higher score in the future.

Cask sample. Completely different from the Chenevottes – none of that struck-match character, just ripe but clean-cut zesty lemon fruit. Creamy and oaky on the palate, the oak giving a very slight bitterness on the finish despite the ripe fruit flavours. Quite a big, rounded wine but still has good acidity. (JH)