Matured in 60% new oak, the 2015 Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Aux Cras has an opulent bouquet with blueberry and black cherry fruit soaring from the glass, the oak neatly integrated, although I detected just a little warmth here that detracted from the delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin. There is clearly a solid backbone to this Nuits Saint Georges that lends it a Morey-Saint-Denis-like personality. There is ample blackberry and raspberry notes infused with white pepper and sage, fanning out in confident fashion towards the detailed finish. This is a sturdy and forthright 2015 that will drink beautifully over 15-20 years. This wine is superb.

(control of these 50+-year-old vines reverted back to Domaine Georges Noëllat in 2013; finished its malo very late): Dark red with ruby tones. Pungent but reduced aromas of black cherry and minerals. Dense, creamy and deep in the middle palate, with the sweet dark raspberry fruit given punch by the wine's underlying rocky minerality. A wine of impressive structure, this is almost tough in the early going. But the tannins are ripe and integrated, allowing the slightly medicinal finishing flavors of black cherry and minerals to expand and linger on the aftertaste. A lovely showing.