The 2022 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Vaucrains 1er Cru was picked towards the beginning of the harvest and is matured in 30% new oak. This is blessed with some of the best aromatics from Gouges: detailed and mineral-driven, a real and tangible sense of Pinoté here with a palpable sense of energy. The medium-bodied palate has filigree tannins, joyous red berry fruit and wonderful tension, fanning out with joie-de-vivre on the finish. The infusion/low sulfur regime plus fewer punch downs for this wine has really seen this achieve new heights.

Cask sample. A little inkier and with a tad more plushness and weight in the glass after the Clos des Porrets St-Georges this maintains the very fine showing from Gouges in 2022. Dark-berry and plum fruit. Touch of kirsch. More structured, needs a bit longer to fully meld together. But all the components are there. (AWH)