The 2010 Clos de Vougeot is another fabulous wine bursting with energy and a sense of urgency that is hard to capture with mere words. Freshly cut roses, crushed rocks and red berries come together beautifully in the glass. The Clos de Vougeot is impeccable and totally engaging from start to finish. The only possible downside is that the seriously firm tannins will require considerable bottle age to soften. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2035. I was blown away by the wines I tasted with Etienne Grivot on what turned out to be one of the most thrilling visits of my fall trip. Readers should do whatever they can to latch onto a few bottles of these exquisite Burgundies. Grivot talked about a roller coaster vintage which was saved by 3-4 days of good weather. The estate lost fruit from 3,000 plants and yields were down 40% across the board because of the poor weather during the flowering. The most dramatic proof of the loss in production was seeing some of rooms in the cellar with far fewer barrels than is the norm. The domaine’s 2009s are equally exciting. I will have notes on those wines in the April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Good bright full red. Restrained but pure aromas of raspberry, smoke, menthol and coffee. Suave and broad, with subtle sweetness and considerable complexity to the medicinal cherry, earth and menthol flavors. Quite bound-up today, finishing with building dusty tannins and leaving the tongue vibrating. The tannins in this cuvee have become increasingly sensual in recent vintages but without any loss of force. Grivot is steadily cutting the percentage of new oak here, from 80% for the 2009 to 70% for the 2010 to 60% for the 2011.

Amazing breadth and complexity. Flinty, smoky, crunchy red fruit – tremendous flavours. Absolutely delicious. Fantastic structure – determined acidity, pliable tannins. Redcurrant, cranberry, dry and vivacious. Brilliant. (RH)