The 2010 Echezeaux is unbelievably beautiful. It comes across as somewhat cool and understated, but from time to time the wine’s gorgeous fruit shows its pure class. A burst of fruit informs an utterly pure, crystalline finish marked by its nuance and detail. Grivot’s Echezeaux is a model of understated power. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040. I was blown away by the wines I tasted with Etienne Grivot on what turned out to be one of the most thrilling visits of my fall trip. Readers should do whatever they can to latch onto a few bottles of these exquisite Burgundies. Grivot talked about a roller coaster vintage which was saved by 3-4 days of good weather. The estate lost fruit from 3,000 plants and yields were down 40% across the board because of the poor weather during the flowering. The most dramatic proof of the loss in production was seeing some of rooms in the cellar with far fewer barrels than is the norm. The domaine’s 2009s are equally exciting. I will have notes on those wines in the April issue. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Bright full red. Subtly complex nose offers scents of redcurrant, minerals, tobacco, roasted herbs and earthy underbrush. Fat, plush and sweet; less large but more filled in today than the Clos Vougeot. Tactile, saline wine with terrific energy to its flavors of red cherry, redcurrant, tobacco and earth; saturates the palate like a thunderstorm breaking out over a wide front. Finishes with dusty tannins, superb nuance and grip, and outstanding verve. Very sophisticated wine. Grivot's Echezeaux is routinely one of the best.