The 2016 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru les Roncières has a delightful bouquet: red cherries, strawberry, a touch of black truffle and smoke, all understated at first but unfolding with each swirl of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. This is extremely pure and tensile, strangely not unlike a Morey-Saint-Denis in terms of structure, and you can feel the chalkiness coming through on the marine-tinged, saline finish. Excellent—and I suspect this will be very long lasting. There are just five barrels instead of the usual 11 due to frost.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

A slightly fresher if earthier and less obvious spicy nose displays notes of essence of red currant and a discreet floral touch. There is a sleek muscularity to the much more mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that deliver excellent punch and persistence on the beautifully well-balanced and complex finale. This is quite firm and a bit youthfully austere as well but I suspect that the impeccable balance will allow it to be enjoyable young.

Slightly reduced and a bit lower-pitched than the Rouges, offering aromas of black raspberry complicated by soil tones. Plusher, sweeter and more pliant on entry than the Rouges, then juicy and alive in the middle palate but a bit inexpressive in the early going. Tightens up on the back end, finishing with a firm edge. A bit disorganized today and in need of further élevage .