The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Rouges 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet, sporting more black fruit than the Les Chaumes, and perhaps earthier, with scents of chai tea developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. A nimble Vosne-Romanée that seems light on its feet, offering plenty of tension and energy toward the finish and spicy notes on the residual aftertaste. Excellent.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Rouges unwinds in the glass with notes of sweet red berries, spices and orange rind. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, tensile and incisive, with tangy acids, a vibrant core of fruit and a mineral finish. As usual, it's the raciest premier cru in the Grivot cellar.

Light crimson. Intense aroma of sour red-cherry fruit with a hint of spice. Irresistible fruit richness and freshness at the same time, with those creamy Grivot tannins. There's a lovely dustiness to the dry tannins on the finish. So long. (JH)