Pungent iodine, Lapsang tea, peat, crushed stone, and brown spices mingle with fresh black fruits in the nose of Grivot’s 2008 Vosne Romanee Les Beaumonts, which in the mouth adds savory, umami-rich shrimp shell reduction and soy to its berry and mineral melange. Finely tannic and with undeniably austere elements to its strong mineral expression, this nonetheless draws saliva and invigorates with its saline, smoky, spicy, tartly juicy, palate-staining, vibrant persistence. Strikingly delicious and fascinatingly complex as this is, Grivot seeks to assure me that it isn’t showing all that it had prior to bottling, although I’m finding that hard to imagine in this instance! “We never want rapid malos,” notes Etienne Grivot, “but those in 2008 were not especially late or long by our standards – no longer than in 2002 or 2005. And I didn’t sulfur the wines when they were completed, because the volatile acids were really low and the pHs were very good” (i.e. low). Instead, most of Grivot’s 2008s were only sulfured after the 2009 harvest. Grivot gave them at least 3 weeks in tank before bottling, which took place between January and early April. Based on my intuitions and Grivot’s testimony, several of his 2008s were suffering significantly from post-bottling depression when I tasted them in late April, so readers should bear this is mind and recognize that my scores, in isolation, might prove misleadingly low. Grivot characterizes the 2008s as “dynamic but introverted” and “less accessible” than either the 2006s or 2007s, but that contrast appears to have been exacerbated by circumstances on this occasion. (In view of the delightful showing of two Grivot 2007s in April, I regret that I simply wasn’t able to taste more wines from that collection in the time available to me.) Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

The 2008 Vosne-Romanee Les Beaux Monts is fresh, vibrant and beautifully explosive. The rich, layered fruit finds a fabulous counterpoint in the nuanced aromatics and chiseled finish. This is a beautiful, complete wine with a very bright future. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Etienne and Marielle Grivot that captures the essence of several of Vosne’s most illustrious vineyards. Grivot encourages slow malos and leaves the wines on the lees for approximately 15 months after the vinification. New oak ranges from 15-20% for the villages, 30-50% for the 1ers and 40-70% for the grands crus. Based on the wines I tasted 2009 looks like a much more consistent vintage than 2008. The finest 2008s are also well worth considering, but there are more highs and lows, especially in the entry part of the range. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

Good full, bright red. Wonderfully aromatic nose offers raspberry, cherry, wild herbs, flowers, white pepper and cumin. Silky on entry, then gripping and sweet in the mid-palate; a distinct step up in intensity and plenitude from the village wines. The mounting, energetic finish really stains the palate. This needs time in bottle. Grivot compares his 2008s to vintages like 2006, 2001 and 1998.

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. This has an extraordinary bouquet, showing less reduction that Etienne’s other barrels samples, with notes of black cherries, blueberry, black olive and a touch of oyster shell. Great clarity and brightness. The palate is medium-bodied with good backbone here, great harmony and again, building all the time on the palate, unfolding in the mouth with Morelle and wild strawberry flavours, struck through with crushed stones, the a hint of boysenberry towards the finish. Good persistency, a great Beaumonts. Drink 2010-2025. Tasted November 2009.

Sweet spot outstanding. Mild reduction doesn't completely hide the ripe blue and black fruit nose that is liberally laced with spice elements that continue onto the cool, textured and mineral-suffused medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent detail on the intense and long finish where the tannins do not appear to be quite as ripe as those of the Brûlées though this impression could be due to the ample gas. Drink: 2018+
-Burghound.com, Issue 37. Tasted: Jan 30, 2010