2009 Domaine Jean Grivot, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru, Les Beaux Monts

The 2009 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts shows marvelous balance and precision. Fresh and vibrant to the core, the Beaux-Monts flows with the essence of dark red fruit, roses and licorice. The wine blossoms beautifully on the mid-palate, as the aromas and flavors play off each other in an intense counterpoint. Clean mineral notes frame the exquisite finish.

Medium red. Aromas of very ripe plum, truffle and menthol. Lush and silky-sweet but with very good energy to the red fruit and spice flavors. Today I don't find quite the clarity and thrust that a barrel sample showed a year ago, but this ripe, suave, very concentrated wine should offer substantial early pleasure and age well.

Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. This is quite tertiary on the nose with touches of dark cherry, granite rather than limestone and just a hint of crushed violet. It will hopefully develop more vigour. The palate has silky smooth tannins and superb acidity: very lively, very fleshy and generous towards the finish that belies the complexity and subtlety. Great length, with tart cherry and bergamot lingering on the aftertaste. Tasted November 2010.

Mid ruby. Also quite evolved, like the Tremblay 2009, on the nose. Intense and deep flavoured. Then solid and with melted tannins and just a little dry on the finish. But very much more charming than the young Grivots I taste every year. Some life. (JR)