Assembled from many parcels, the 2005 Vosne-Romanee smells of fresh black raspberry with hints of brown spices, bitter-sweet florals, and game. Flatteringly creamy on the palate and with a sweet, marrowy meatiness and overtly wet stone, chalky substrate, this never loses the bright, invigorating side of its fresh black fruits. Etienne Grivot aimed this year for gentle extraction (essentially without pigeage), then watchful preservation of the freshness, subtleties and refinement inherent in near-perfect raw material. He performed some very light chaptalization to extend the fermentations. Given the health and natural concentration of his vinous raw material, he felt no need to sulfur or rack the wines until shortly prior to bottling (without filtration), which was the stage at which I tasted. Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400.

A double whammy of great Vosne Village, this following the delectable offering from Mugneret-Gibourg. The nose is more closed with faint crisp raspberry and cherry, infused with a touch of tobacco. The palate is concentrate with good grip, gregarious, quite burly and sinewy. Great length though just a little “fluffy” on the wild strawberry and violet tinged finish. Excellent. Tasted January 2007. Drink 2008-2013

A very Vosne spicy and elegant red and black fruit nose nuanced with hints of violets complements to perfection the seductive and velvety flavors that coat the mouth with ample amounts of sap to buffer the firm but buried tannins that surface on the suave finish. An excellent villages but note that patience will be required.

Good full red. Ripe aromas of cherry, minerals and rose petal. Sweet and juicy, with a bit less density than the Charmois. Bright red fruit and mineral flavors show a medicinal austerity on the back end, suggesting that this firmly tannic, solid wine will reward five or six years of aging.

Good friendly, well-polished fruit with lots of acidity. Damsons, lots of tannin but gentler than some earlier vintages. (JR)