Tasted out of barrel at the Domaine. A lifted nose, more generous than the NSG Charmoix at the moment, darker fruit and a little tighter with dark cherries, redcurrant and orange zest. Nice definition once again. The palate demonstrates fine balance and poise, focused and polished with a distant tang of fresh black olive on the finish. A Vosne-Romanee with lots of personality and intrigue. Drink 2010-2016. Tasted November 2009.

Black tea, leather, iris, cassis, red currant, and blackberry in the nose of Grivot’s 2008 Vosne Romanee lead to a restrained but refreshing, bittersweet palate impression and a juicy finish slightly marred by a drying spot and faint lip-curling that may be attributable to its recent bottling. I would want to revisit this before predicting its evolutionary potential. “We never want rapid malos,” notes Etienne Grivot, “but those in 2008 were not especially late or long by our standards – no longer than in 2002 or 2005. And I didn’t sulfur the wines when they were completed, because the volatile acids were really low and the pHs were very good” (i.e. low). Instead, most of Grivot’s 2008s were only sulfured after the 2009 harvest. Grivot gave them at least 3 weeks in tank before bottling, which took place between January and early April. Based on my intuitions and Grivot’s testimony, several of his 2008s were suffering significantly from post-bottling depression when I tasted them in late April, so readers should bear this is mind and recognize that my scores, in isolation, might prove misleadingly low. Grivot characterizes the 2008s as “dynamic but introverted” and “less accessible” than either the 2006s or 2007s, but that contrast appears to have been exacerbated by circumstances on this occasion. (In view of the delightful showing of two Grivot 2007s in April, I regret that I simply wasn’t able to taste more wines from that collection in the time available to me.) Importer: Diageo Chateau and Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel. (212) 419-1400

Palish medium red. Reticent, polite aromas of cherry, raspberry and minerals. Juicy, tight and youthfully imploded, with floral and spice elements emerging on the palate. In a very dry style but more refined than the Charmois. The pure finish features attractive floral/mineral lift.

The 2008 Vosne-Romanee reveals good inner tension in its sweet crushed flowers, tobacco and incense. This, too, could use a little more complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2016. This is a gorgeous set of wines from Etienne and Marielle Grivot that captures the essence of several of Vosne’s most illustrious vineyards. Grivot encourages slow malos and leaves the wines on the lees for approximately 15 months after the vinification. New oak ranges from 15-20% for the villages, 30-50% for the 1ers and 40-70% for the grands crus. Based on the wines I tasted 2009 looks like a much more consistent vintage than 2008. The finest 2008s are also well worth considering, but there are more highs and lows, especially in the entry part of the range. Importer: Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa CA; tel. (707) 299-2600

A bit stinky on the nose – some sulphidic compounds being problematic here – and/or brett. Similarly on the palate there is a certain rankness. (RH)