(bottled the day before my December visit, after spending a month in cuve ; represents a yield of just 20 hectoliters per hectare): Bright red-ruby. Rather wild aromas of crushed cherry, black raspberry, blueberry and violet, plus a leathery nuance. Sweet and full for Bourgogne, conveying an almost chocolatey ripeness to its dark berry flavors. And yet this wine has a pH of just 3.22, according to Nicolas Groffier, who aged it with a lot of its lees and bottled it without fining or filtration. Groffier made just 15 barrels of this juice, versus a more typical 33 to 38. This 2015 boasts vibrant acidity and uncommon density for its appellation, but then this bottling is almost always an outperformer.

Mid cherry. Light smoky reductive/savoury aroma over fresh dark-red fruit. Juicy and vitally fresh on the mid palate. Fine texture. (JH)