2022 Robert Groffier, Bourgogne, Pinot Noir

The 2022 Clos de Bèze from Groffier is a thrilling wine with a fig and blackberry fruit aroma and gunflint, wood smoke, leather, earth, and menthol nuances. The texture is dense and concentrated, with abundant but very velvety tannins that leave no impression of astringency. The grapes come from 0.45 hectares of old vines running the length of the vineyard just south of the vines of Drouhin-Laroze. They are entirely fermented as whole clusters and aged in new casks.

The 2022 Bourgogne Rouge has an attractive, slightly tertiary bouquet, with perhaps a few stems here lending complexity. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins. This is a pretty Bourgogne Rouge with crisp, pure fruit and an elegant finish. Quite delicious. Tasted at merchants' 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.

Steeply priced for a Bourgogne Rouge! Plenty of intensity and weight on the palate but I don't get the value. Certainly a classy 'entry-level’ Pinot but there are better-value options here. (AWH)