The 2023 Mâcon-Pierreclos Tris de Chavigne is one of the finest renditions of this cuvée that I've ever tasted from Jean-Marie Guffens. It's among the most expressive, too, at least at this early stage, bursting from the glass with aromas of peach and pear mingled with white flowers, beeswax, toasted almonds and honey. Medium- to full-bodied, dense and concentrated, it's rich but chiseled, with a bright spine of acidity, chalky structuring extract and a long, searingly mineral finish.

Julien Desplans explains that Jean-Marie Guffens has 4.5ha of the lieu-dit En Chavigne, and they produce different wines by harvesting the parcel several times. In 2023, they picked the site over several weeks; the Tri de Chavigne is one step removed from their top wine, Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigne. It is a wine of intense concentration in its own right, offering notes of ripe melon, quince, and apricots brushed with honey. The texture is rich, but the phenolic character gives it a pleasant, slightly bitter note (beaux amers) that brings everything into balance.