The 2023 Mâcon-Pierreclos Juliette et les Vieilles de Chavigne is even deeper and more muscular than the Tri de Chavigne, and more introverted too, unwinding in the glass with reductive aromas of peach, wheat toast, pear and toasted nuts. Full-bodied, dense and seamless, it's broad-shouldered and powerful, with a prodigious chassis of dry extract cloaked in layers of ripe fruit, girdled by racy acids and concluding with a long, penetrating finish.

This superb wine, blended from two parcels from the top of the slope in Chavigne (one with old vines, one young) is not made every year. The 2023 vintage is sublime, with pronounced aromas of ripe William pear and melon, exotic anise, clove spice and beeswax. The texture is decadently rich, almost chewy, but there is enough structure here to ensure the wine will age for decades. The grapes are lightly crushed and gently pressed before fermentation in cask (50% new) to produce what is surely one of Burgundy’s top white wines.

The 2023 Mâcon-Pierreclos Juliette et Les Vieilles de Chavigne comes from vines planted in 2003 on one of the highest points of the hill, the fruit tending to reach maturity quicker than others. This has quite a floral bouquet—dandelion and peony—that marries nicely with the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced, slightly viscous in texture, with a very Coche-like reduction on the finish. Fortunately, it's not Coche-like in secondary prices.