Offering up aromas of white peach, mandarin oil and white flowers mingled with notions of wet stones, mint and toasted almonds, Guffens's 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Jus des Hauts de Vignes is medium to full-bodied, satiny and seamless, its textural attack segueing into a sweet core of fruit framed by racy acids, concluding with a long, discreetly exotic finish. Youthfully charming, it will offer a broad drinking window. As readers may remember, this particular cuvée includes all the first-press juice (with the lower pH and highest acidity) from Guffens's high-altitude holdings, including Les Croux and the final vintage of the domaine's sharecropping in La Roche, two superior sites that were both sadly hailed this year.

The 2022 Pouilly-Fuissé Premiers Jus des Hauts des Vignes is a blend of cuvées, partly caused by a hailstorm in June that precluded separate cuvées such as the Croux et Petit Croux that is in this blend. This is raised in 40-50% new oak. It is pretty lucid in color and offers enticing mandarin, beeswax and light white linen scents that are beautifully defined and potent. The palate is well-balanced with a silver bead of acidity, very fresh and focused with a harmonious, spicy, stem ginger-tinged finish that lingers in the mouth. Thank you, hailstorm!