The Boillot 2007 Meursault Perrieres – as in past years, representing a mere 2 barrels from near the Clos de Perrieres – both smells and tastes of ripe peach and kiwi dusted with chalk. Its fruit is more overtly sweet than that of most of its fellow premier crus in this collection, but at the same time it doesn't by any means lack for minerality in the sense of chalky, stony, and saline inflections, and there is an exuberant finishing refreshment here – along with nips of citrus zest and brown spices – that reel you in for the next sip. This polished and energetic rendition of its great site should gain from a few years' bottle age and last for at least the better part of a decade. As explained in my report in issue 180, Henri Boillot’s domaine is now legally known by his name rather than that of his father Jean, and is thus eponymous with his negociant business. Furthermore, given what seems to be a stylistic convergence as well as given Boillot's own preference in presenting his wines this year, I have folded together the coverage of these two entities, noting in the text of my notes those wines that come from the domaine. Boillot did not begin picking until the second week in September, harvesting fruit that he reported required only occasional, minimal chaptalization and had higher tartaric than malic acid, in contrast to their proportions in 2008. Since Boillot managed to achieve his ideals of “precision and minerality” even in the ripe 2006 vintage, it will come as no surprise that they have been brilliantly achieved in 2007. A preference for volume of healthy lees rather than their stirring and (as mentioned in my report on his 2006s) the utilization of 350-liter barrels rather than barriques are surely among the factors that permit these wines to marry richness with refreshment and clarity. On the other hand, even the wines of lesser appellation that receive less barrel exposure are still given extended time on their fine lees in tank before bottling, Boillot being a believer that "time is of the essence" to great white Burgundy, not in the proverbial sense but rather in that of taking enough if it. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491 4724

Pale, bright yellow. Reticent rocky nose shows complex nut oil and leesy nuances. Dense, sappy and thick, conveying a chewy impression of extract. Strong mineral and stone elements give this a distinctly tactile impression. This classically dry wine will require a bit of bottle aging to express itself.