Full, bright medium yellow. Exotic spices, pineapple, orange and iodiney minerality on the rather impenetrable nose. Juicy, chewy and tactile, with powerful pineapple and soft citrus fruit flavors complemented by clove spice and stone. Dense and thick but with terrific punch and rocky minerality emerging on the back end. This expands inexorably, leaving behind a tannic impression. But there's already terrific fruit for a young Montrachet.

The 2009 Montrachet possesses impressive density and richness, not to mention considerable silkiness on the palate. The wine fills out beautifully in the glass, with layers of fruit that wrap around effortlessly to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Henri Boillot’s negociant line. The entry-level wines in particular offer fabulous value. If anything, those are the most interesting wines here. When tasting Burgundy it is tempting to assume that premier crus are better than villages, and grand crus are better than the premiers, but that is often not the case, especially in a warm vintage where lesser sites ripened to a greate extent than is typically possible. Shrewd readers will find many jewels in this lineup, but they won’t be in the most likely places. In 2011 Boillot will have several new wines in his range, including Referts and Combettes. The 2009 villages were bottled in November, while the premier crus were bottled in January 2011. Importer: Various US importers, including Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769