Bright red-ruby. Rather brooding aromas of cassis, blackberry, smoke and licorice are pure and discreet. Surprisingly rich on entry, then lush and seamless in the middle, but with very good acidity framing and lifting the black fruit and game flavors. The powerful, rising finish features building tannins and a distinct thick-skinned character. The old vines in Boillot's parcel were strongly affected by millerandage, which largely explains this wine's extra measure of texture and concentration. Boillot noted that his 2011s generally have 3.8 to 4 grams per liter of acidity following the malos, which is quite healthy for the vintage.

Boillot's 2011 Volnay Les Chevrets hits the palate with an array of dark stone fruits, savory herbs, leather and asphalt. The tannins are a bit rough around the edges at this stage, which gives the Chevrets and element of wildness that is not shared by most of the wines in the range. It will be interesting to see if time in bottle helps smooth things out.

A bit sweaty on the nose and decidedly ungracious on the palate. Quite a bit of tannin. (JR)