Airy and weightless within the context of the year, the 2012 Volnay Les Caillerets is wonderfully complete and expressive. An exotic mélange of graphite, pencil shavings, white pepper and blue fruits takes shape in a precise, chiseled Burgundy that impresses for its finely cut texture and delineation. Totally vivid in the glass, the Caillerets dazzles from start to finish. This is a great example of the vintage at its very best.

Deep red-ruby. Highly complex aromas of currant, chocolate, menthol, minerals and wild herbs complemented by a sexy earthy perfume. Thick, dense and deep but without any heaviness to the superrich dark fruit and soil flavors. Utterly lush and seamless wine with suave, noble tannins and outstanding palate-staining persistence. I could barely tell when I had spit the wine as it finishes with uncanny cling.