Pale light yellow. Sexy aromas and flavors of peach, acacia flower, smoke and clove. Rich in extract, smooth and dry (under one gram per liter r.s.), gaining thickness toward the back without any loss of harmony. Utterly smooth, extract-rich wine with superb persistence. The combination of dryness and gras is extraordinary. Another premier cru at grand cru level in this cellar.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Bouilland. The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère has a comparatively straightforward if well-defined bouquet although it does not have the cohesion and complexity of Boillot's Les Perrières. The palate has a brisk and stony entry. There is plenty of salinity here: strict and precise with quite a punchy sea-influenced finish. It calls out for a plate of fruits de mer that would counterbalance its terseness. Tasted May 2016.

An old favourite… Dense and rich with a top note of struck matches and some of the delicacy that has been missing from some of these Lea & Sandeman white burgundies. I can’t see how anyone would fail to be pleased by this – at a price. Okay, it’s not subtle but… Long. (JR)