Guillaume Boillot continues to work his nearly four hectares of old vines in the Clos de la Mouchère in several parcels; we tasted each section separately. The vines near the wood surrounding Clos de la Garenne have bright citrus notes with hints of flint and mineral. Those near Clavoillon have more of a ripe pear and marzipan aroma; they are less focused but have more density, elegance and depth. The combination makes a superb wine that is one of the delights of Boillot's cellar.

In 2022 a better allocation than in the frosted 2021 vintage, Charles Lea of Lea & Sandeman tells me, as was the case with many domaines and many importers. Cask sample. Extremely well-judged hint of struck match to accompany the spice of the oak and the tart tang of the citrus. Intense, mouth-watering. Drive, length and precision. But it is very expensive. (JH)